Home Improvement Contractor Is He Qualified

I am a general contractor in the state of Michigan. In other words I fix, build, or remodel anything pertaining to residential homes. The purpose of this article is to inform home owners about a growing problem in the construction/remodeling industry. That problem is the increasing numbers of unqualified individuals that are entering the field.

Due to the struggling economy and recent lay offs, many conversations around the kitchen table go something like this: What are we going to do now Jane? Well John, you helped my brother roof his house that one time and you fixed the door on our shed and you like working around the house...why dont you put an ad in the paper as a roofer or a carpenter? Hey Jane, thats a great idea. I can get business by offering a really low price. Yea, that's what Ill do!

Now I feel for a guy that is out of work. I really do. But when an unqualified individual decides "hey I'll be a contractor", all to often this results in nothing but trouble for the customer. What happens if John falls off the roof or drops his hammer on the hood of your brand new car? Is he insured?

What about warranties? If he says I will guarantee this roof wont leak for 5 years, and then it does, will he still be in business? Statistics say no. As a matter of fact, most of the people entering into business today will not be in business 1 year from now, much less 5 years from now.

Of course there is the most important question: does he know what hes doing? Does the fact that John helped his brother roof a house make him a qualified roofer?

There are insurance considerations as well. For example, lets say a home owner hires an individual that is not licensed to install a new furnace in his home. If the furnace starts a fire and burns the house down, some insurance companies will deny the claim. The reason is since there is no record of a permit(which there would not be as an unlicensed individual can not obtain a permit) they assume that the furnace could have been installed incorrectly. Now a home owner is left with a huge loss and all because they wanted to save a few bucks on the installation.

Do yourself a favor and stick with a pro. If you conduct a proper contractor interview, then you know that you are going to get a quality job by a licensed and insured individual who offers a warranty..and honors it. If you are not sure how to conduct a proper contractor interview, you can find information on this and other subjects at my web site.

My name is R. Paul Phillips. I am a co owner of Tanner-Phillips Properties, which is a new construction/remodeling business in Lansing, Mi. I have a free home improvement information website located at http://www.greater-lansing-home-improvement.com While my site is tailored for the Lansing area, the majority of the information is useful to anyone interested in home improvement tips, product reviews, how to screen contractors......etc. I also have a contact page so you can ask questions specific to your project.

Frontyard Stairs

What A Remodeling Job Will Actually Cost You

Unless you moved into a custom designed a13BBnd built home, like you, most California homeowners have thought about putting an addition on their home, or having their kitchen or bathroom remodeled. Having a dream kitchen or bathroom, is a natural thought that, believe it or not, isnt just for the rich and famous. Most anyone can make their remodeling dream a reality, with the right planning that is.

There are many factors to take into account when planning for your new home renovation or addition. If thought through thoroughly, and planned for correctly you can keep your home improvement project on your desired budget and running smoothly. The last thing any homeowner wants is to have to spend thousands of extra dollars to complete a project they had a limited budget for.

Here is a list of things to keep in mind when creating your budget:

• Design Costs Before you even think about what materials or hardware you are going to need, your new bathroom/kitchen/addition needs to have blueprints drawn. Some contractors do this for free and some charge extra for this initial step. Make sure you pick a contractor that is reputable, and knows what they are doing. Stay clear of contractors that tell you they dont need blueprints, or who dont go through the design process with you step-by-step.

• Materials This will be the most substantial part of your budget. Your choice in materials can change the cost of your remodel by thousands of dollars. Keep different options in mind when deciding between all your various materials. There can be big differences between hard wood, laminate, tile, stone, oak, granite, pine, etc. Try to find a good balance between style and affordability.

• Size Will walls need to be taken down or built for your new room? Will you keep existing cabinet framing and reface the rest, or do you plan on completely new custom cabinetry? Plan on whether or not you will be demolishing the old room completely or using existing framing, piping and electrical.

• Hardware This refers to the finishing touches in your new room, and can really add a significant cost to your project. Take your time to look for the right faucets, shower heads, sinks, appliances (stove, microwave, oven, refrigerator), door handles, mirrors, etc. Again, you want to keep the style you are looking for, but also look for inexpensive alternatives and discounted products to save you money in the end.

• Timing Most, if not all, remodeling jobs are going to take a while. Be sure to schedule your project during a time when you will be able to occasionally leave work to go over progress, and be ready to answer any questions that might come up. No matter how well you plan in the beginning you will need and want to be involved at some point during the actual build.

These are the major aspects of a home remodeling, renovating or addition project, which all play a major part in the budget of your job. Try to account for every possible aspect of the project, keeping a list of various costs to ensure you know what to expect as a final price. There are a select few good online services, which will match you with contractors in your area. Two of which who use a very strict pre-screening service are All Around the Home and CalFinder. Both make it easy for their visitors to receive free estimates from the best contractors in their area.

These contractors will help you to plan your budget, and give you realistic costs for your next project. Be sure to compare contractors, prices and services to make sure you find the one just right for you. By making a realistic and accurate budget, almost anyone can afford to do their dream remodel or renovation!

Find all types of California home improvement services at national directory All Around the Home including general contracting, kitchen remodeling. Visit CalFinder, a contractor matching service, serving the San Francisco Bay Area in areas like general remodeling.

4 X 10 Patio Cover Beam Overhang

Metal Gazebo Roof - A Roof For Your Gazebo

When you choose to buy a custom gazebo kit, you are offered many options to complete the gazebo you have long been dreaming of. Do you want screens? Do you want windows? And more importantly, what kind of roof do you want for your gazebo?

You may want a double roof gazebo. A double roof will offer extra ventilation for your gazebo. It is really more of an aesthetic addition. From inside of the gazebo, it gives it more of a cathedral ceiling type of a look. When viewing the gazebo from the outside, the double roof offers a break in the roofline.

You may opt for what is called a regular, square, hip roof. It is called this because all four sides are pitched inward and all sides are equal. The peak of the roof is located exactly in the center of the building and this results in all four roof sides as having an equal slope.

You may want to construct a metal gazebo roof. The advantage of a metal roof is durability and they are lightweight. You can make metal to imitate the appearance of just about any other type of roofing. A metal roof gazebo will have a life expectancy of over thirty years. The downside is the cost. Metal roof gazebo will cost from $100-$600 per 100 square feet and the installation will cost more than a shingle roof as well.

A metal gazebo roof may be made of painted aluminum or steel. These are two of the most popular choices. Aluminum and steel are strong and they can be formed to look like a tile or slate roof. These can be very expensive.

The speed of installation is another factor to consider when you are thinking of a metal roof gazebo. You can often find a metal roof gazebo kit that will have everything you need in order to set up and enjoy your new gazebo in the shortest amount of time.

A metal roof gazebo will give you years of worry free use. You wont find holes, cracks or loose shingles when you choose a metal roof gazebo. The ease of maintenance and years of wear and tear can definitely tip the balance in favor of the more expensive metal roof gazebo, as it will be much easier to care for and last much longer.

Want to learn more about Metal Gazebo Roof?

Feel free to visit us at: http://www.gazebos-land.info/Articles/Metal_Gazebo.php

Sanding Hardwood Floors

There are certain hardwoods that are vulnerable to weather and climate changes. Some woods contract or shorten when it is hot. Others expand when there is moisture. When this happens, the floor becomes uneven. If left unchecked, it could ruin the look of the room and even become hazardous enough to cause accidents.

You1C26 do not have to take out the planks and replace them. The more practical solution is to sand them. Sanding your floor is a project that needs your dedication and time, whether you do it yourself or hire a contractor for it.

Sanding It All Away

For the initial sanding, you will need to use the coarsest sandpaper- the 20 grit. There is a sanding machine that you can use to make the whole ordeal easier and faster.

For efficiency, you will need to sand the floor at a 45 degree angle to the grain. It may take several rounds before the surface evens. It really depends on the precision of the tongue-and-grove milling of the hardwood.

Another technique is pushing and pulling the sander as it moves. The pressure is strong as it moves forward. You will need to lift the sander at an angle and apply pressure as it moves back. Continue this method until the diagonal scratches are not visible anymore. You must be careful that the traces of the sandpaper are eliminated. The slightest pattern will show after you apply a coating.

The process may take a long time. Be prepared to change the sandpaper form time to time. Stock up on 20, 36, 60, 80, and 100 grit sandpaper. For wood that is coated with aluminum oxide, use a commercially available softening solution before sanding. It may be hard to sand if you do not do this. Sandpaper also contains aluminum oxide so scratching the two surfaces against each other will take more force.

Hardwood Floors provides detailed information on Hardwood Floors, Engineered Hardwood Floors, Solid Hardwood Floors, Long-strip Hardwood Floors and more. Hardwood Floors is affiliated with Install Hardwood Flooring.

Framing Arches
Index

Building Wood Stairs

By: Dave Markel
Building a set of wood stairs is not nearly as hard as you may think. With some basic wood tools and a bit of algebra you can easily build your own. Of course this can get a bit tricky for stairs with several landings but the method is still the same.
This article will cover the steps for building a straight set of stairs. Chances are if you are reading this then you are still learning and won't be taking on a complex stair anyway.
Now, we will assume that it is from a deck to a concrete pad. The deck is going to be 48" wide and at eye level from the ground.
Tools you will need:
Circular saw
Framing square
Hand saw
Carpenters pencil
Measuring tape
4' Level
Masking tape
You will also need:
3 @ 10' / 2" x 12" boards - Choose the best only, make sure they are straight with no check (cracks). Very Important!
2 @ 8' / 2" x 4" boards
8 @ 8' / 2" x 6" boards - Once again choose the good ones. These are going to be the steps so...
1 @ 45" / 2" x 6" boards
1 sheet of plywood @ 1/2" / 8" x 48"
Of course, 3-1/2" framing nails and deck screws or nails for the steps.
Find the overall rise
We want to know the exact vertical distance from the top of the concrete pad to the top of the deck. Take one of the 8' 2x4's and rest one end on the deck and hold the other over the pad, Place the level on the 2x4 and level the board. Then simply measure from the bottom of the 2x4 to the pad. Lets say it is 64". This is the overall rise.
Now determine the overall run
Before we can do this we have to determine how many steps we need.
So first..
Take the overall rise, 64", and divide it by 7.25", which is the typical height of 1 riser (step). This gives us 8.83, which rounds up to 9, So we will go with 9 risers.
Important: There is always 1 less tread then risers. Whether you go up or down the last step is onto the deck or the pad. So 1 less tread.
Now we take 10.5", the width of a typical step, and multiply it by 8. This gives us 84". This is the overall run.
While we are doing the math we need to figure out the exact rise of each step. We simply take the overall rise of 64" and divide it by 9 and we get 7.111" or 7-1/8", or close enough to it. So each riser will be 7-1/8".
Time for some layout
First thing. Grab your framing square. The long leg is the tread (step) leg and the short leg is the riser leg. Also, use the numbers on the outside of the square only.
Take some masking tape and wrap a piece around the framing square to establish you rise and run. Mark 10.5" on the outside of the long leg and 7-1/8" on the outside of the short leg.
Layout one of the 2x12's on your saw horses or work bench. WIth the long leg of your framing square towards the end of the board start to line up the tape marks to the edge of the board facing you. Once you have the square in position mark the outside edge of it with your pencil.
Continue to do this until you have the required number of steps, 8 in this case. This first riser is always shorter by the thickness of the steps, for us that is 1.5". This makes the first riser 5-5/8".
Cut 'em out
Now use you circular saw to cut out the stringers (technical name for 2x12 with stair marks on it) being sure to cut on the waste side of the line. When you cut into the corner with a circular saw the blade misses some of the wood on the bottom side of the board. This is fine, simply cut up to the line and stop, then finish the cut with your hand saw.
Now use the first stringer as a template for the other two. Lay the stringer onto the 2x12's and trace around it. Then cut out the other stringers the same as the first.
Reinforce the stringers
Align one of the 8' 2x4's along the bottom edge of the string and mark it to fit the profile of the ends of the stringers. Cut the 2x4 and secure it to the bottom edge of the stringer. Repeat this for one other stringer. These help to strengthen the stringers and reduce "bounce" in the stairs. Use the framing nails to secure them.
Assemble the stairs
The plywood is used to attach the stairs to the deck. Secure the sheet of plywood to the top end of the stringers. The two outside stringers are nailed flush with the edge of the plywood while the third stringer is centered on the sheet. Simply nail through the plywood into the face of the stringers using framing nails. 4 into each stringer will be enough.
Now take the 45" 2x6 and nail it in between the bottom of the outside stringers. The 2x6 will fit into the notch cut into the center stringer. This provides the right spacing for the bottom of the stairs and secures them to the pad.
Attach them to the deck
Move the stairs into their final position. make sure they are level across the stringers and that the risers are plumb. When the stairs are positioned correctly nail through the plywood into the side of the deck. Use some 3" concrete nails to secure the 2x6 spacer to the concrete pad.
Install the treads
Cut the 8 - 8' 2x6's in half, be sure to cut them square. Starting at the bottom of the stairs, start placing the 2x6 stair treads. Simply center them on the stringers and use some 3"deck nails to attach them. You can also use an exterior adhesive to assure that they don't move.
Continue to work your way up the stairs until you reach the top.
You are done... well, almost
Railings. You need to install a railing to keep people from falling off.
About The Author
Dave Markel is the author of "The All Wood Working Journal". He has helped hundreds of individuals improve their wood working skills. Visit his site at http://all-wood-working-plans.com.

How To Choose An Interlocking Wood Decking Tile

By: Malcolm D Kay




Interlocking wood decking tiles or patio pavers are rapidly becoming a very popular product for quickly and easily covering drab concrete patios with an attractive solid wood surface. They have the big advantage that you don't need to rip up the old concrete and can simply lay them over the top, without any special surface preparation. And the beauty of these convenient patio pavers is that you don't need to be an expert handyman and you won't need a special set of power tools to install them. They just click together like a jigsaw puzzle.

However there is now a increasing number of manufacturers offering such products, so making an informed choice between what's available is becoming more difficult. In this article, we discuss some of the main features of the tiles that you probably should consider before making a final decision on which tile would suit you best in your particular circumstances.

Wood species

This is probably one of the most important aspects in choosing a decking tile. Ideally you would choose a wood species with the highest natural durability, but there is the colour aspect to consider as well. Wood species can range tremendously in colour, from light straw through chocolate browns to deep orange red colours. But based on durability considerations alone, then one of the most durable and hard wearing species is undoubtedly Ipe wood from South America. Under this there are then a number of other wood species also from South America and a few from Southeast Asia. Rather than listing all the individual species, we suggest that you check the durability and other characteristics from an authoritative web site such as the USDA Forest Service at http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/Menu.ssi . Note that some species, although they may be durable in respect of climatic considerations, may still be subject to insect attack such as termites which could be an important consideration in your particular region.

Other considerations when choosing the wood species of course are whether the wood has been responsibly harvested or comes from managed forests.

Wood thickness

Most tiles on the market use wood slats which are approximately 5/8” (15mm) thick. Some manufacturers supply tiles with 3/4" thick slats and others with ½” thick slats. The product you choose to some extent depends on the location where you intend to lay the tiles. For interior situations such as basements, covered patios and other areas not subject to extreme weather conditions, then the ½” thick slats maybe entirely suitable. However in areas with more extreme climatic variation, we would suggest that the thicker wood is a better choice.

Plastic base composition

Plastic tile bases may be made of many combinations of plastic including polypropylene, polyethylene or other plastic materials. Whilst different manufacturers have their particular reason for choosing a specific plastic compound, the main considerations you should be aware of are the brittleness of the plastic, the low temperature characteristics (if you happen to live in a very cold area), and the UV stability of the plastic used. The latter point is extremely important as unless a plastic product used in exterior conditions contains a UV stabiliser, it can degrade very quickly.

Interlocking mechanism

Broadly speaking, there are only two types of interlocking mechanism used on decking tiles currently in the marketplace. Firstly there is the type that has female connectors on two sides and male connectors on the other two sides. Generally speaking, the female connectors are a series of loops which mesh with the pins on the other two sides.

The other type of locking mechanism is completely symmetrical so that any side of any tile will lock with any side of any other tile such as SwiftDeck tiles from http://www.swiftdeck.com.

The disadvantage of the loop and pin style is firstly that it requires a bit more thought in laying the tiles as you must effectively only start in one corner of the area to be covered and keep on moving from that corner. It is difficult to install or remove one of these type of tiles in a central area without disrupting at least three of the tiles around it. The other problem is that on the outer edge of final row you will have one tile with loops on the edge and the next tile with pins on the edge.

There are also tiles on the market which are effectively one way connectors. Once you click the tiles into position, you cannot easily lift them up again. Whilst this may not be a disadvantage if you have no intention of changing the tiles at any time, it does limit your options if you intend to move your home or if you wish to change the design of the deck.

The other problem with the loop and pin design is that if the manufacturer provides an option of clip-on transition strips, then you need two types of these - one which will connect with the pins, and one which will connect with the loops. And similarly if corner transition pieces are supplied as an option, then you also need two types of these as well.

Availability of different designs

Some manufacturers only supply one design of deck tile, generally with four slats of wood running in the same direction. Sometimes there is an option of a five or six slat tile. With other manufacturers you may have an option of more than one design. The advantage of this is that you can then mix and match the different designs to make attractive borders, centrepieces etc.

Optional accessories

If you are using the tiles to cover an existing concrete patio, you would probably have at least one open side. Thus on the final row tiles, you would be able to see the plastic base and the connecting pins unless they are hidden somehow. Some manufacturers therefore provide clip-on transition strips which also have the advantage of reducing the danger of shipping on the outer row of tiles. Corner transition strips are also normally available from such suppliers for the external corners.

This covers the main design and material factors that you should consider when choosing a wood decking tile / patio paver. Of course as well as the above factors you would probably also want to take into consideration the price of the tile, the warranty being offered, any trial period being offered, the after sales service, return policy etc


About The Author

Malcolm Kay is the CEO of HandyDeck Systems Inc. a supplier of DIY exterior home improvement products including interlocking wood patio pavers. For more information see http://www.swiftdeck.com .

Stair Lifts

Stairlifts – A Guide For The Disabled And Elderly
by: John Fowler


Many elderly people face a difficult choice in their later years, as their ability to tackle the stairs in their houses becomes more difficult. Do they sell the houses they love and move into a bungalow or sheltered accommodation or do they convert their dining room to a bedroom and live downstairs, assuming they have a bathroom on the ground floor. Of course, there is a third option, which is to provide safe and secure access to their upstairs facilities by using installing a stairlift.

The purchase of a stairlift is quite a daunting prospect since it is something that you have probably never done before and will never do again. What should you look for in a stairlift and do you understand all of the facilities available and which ones are most important to you? There is also the cost factor, how much do you pay to get peace of mind and should you consider second-hand or reconditioned stairlifts.

Firstly, my recommendation is that whether you buy new or reconditioned that you go to a reputable supplier who can advise you on all of the issues, especially installation. If someone has passed away in you locality and their stairlift is for sale cheaply, it is tempting to buy it. However, remember that there are strict safety standards to adhere to, and that installation may not be straight forward. Just consider the tracking for a moment, is it a straight run, is it on the same side of the stairs, are the stairs the same dimensions, or is the tracking actually curved. With stairlifts you are not just buying a mobility product, you are also buying peace of mind. Make sure you deal with suppliers who have years of experience in advising customers and installing their products.

When considering actually what type of stairlift you require, most people opt for the seated version of the product although other types are available including a standing stairlift and one with a large platform to accommodate a wheelchair. For the rest of the article we will consider the most common type, the seated stairlift.

Seated Stairlift

These tend to be the most common type used in a domestic setting. The majority of users are able to walk, but find it difficult to negotiate the stairs. The person must be able to sit safely on the seat during transit and transfer on and off at the top and bottom of the stairs. A swivel seat and lift-up armrests will make transfers onto and off the seat easier.

The swivel seat can be manually or electrically operated. It is preferable that the user can transfer independently; however, in some situations it may be possible for the carer to carry out an assisted transfer in conjunction with a piece of small handling equipment. The ability of the carer to transfer the user at the top of the stairs should be very carefully considered and avoided if at all possible.

Seating Position

There is a choice of fixed seats, fold-down seats, perching seats and seats which slide forward to assist access in and out of the lift. Some companies will fix the seat at the most appropriate height for the user.

Some of questions you should consider prior to purchase are:

• Will the standard seat provided be the correct size for the user?

• Will the user need a special seat for a child or a harness for a more severely disabled child? A seat unit or moulded seating system will have to be removed before the seat can be folded.

• Which direction will the user need to face? Most seats face sideways, but if the user has a stiff knee he/she may need to face forwards to give them more room.

Installation Design Considerations

If your staircase has a sub-landing at the top, with a few steps to the left or right, most companies can fit a manual or motorised folding platform which bridges the gap between the top of the stairlift and the landing, although the number of stairs and the amount of available headroom will need to be taken into consideration. This allows the user to get off the stairlift and walk straight onto the landing, avoiding the need to have a curved or two straight stairlifts installed.

Some people may find the platforms unnerving as they are quite high up over the staircase. If the track for the stairlift cannot continue beyond the bottom or top step of the staircase, usually because it will obstruct a door, some companies can provide a fold-up, hinged rail to overcome this problem. Can other members of the household easily use the stairway when the lift is folded against the wall?

How will the stairlift be controlled and powered

Will the user be able to operate the standard controls, usually push button controls sited on the end of the armrest, or is an alternative method required, for example joystick or toggle controls? Will the controls need to be sited in another position? Wander leads allow the user to operate the controls from the most comfortable position or a carer to operate the lift independently. Remote controls, for a carer to operate, are also available from some companies. Lifts are available with an audible signal to alert blind and partially sighted users that the lift is at the top or the bottom of the track.

Straight stairlifts are available with a battery backup option in case of power failures. Most standard straight stairlifts are powered from the mains. Most curved stairlifts run from rechargeable batteries, which are continually topped up from charging points at the top and the bottom of the stairs. This needs accurate re-siting at the charging point because of a warning bleep if it is in the wrong place.

Maintaining your stairlift

Most major companies guarantee their stairlifts for one year. After this it is recommended that they are inspected every six months and serviced annually. Some companies offer an emergency call-out facility. However, check that they have fully trained service engineers on call 24 hours per day. On completion of your one year warranty most companies will offer to re-guarantee the lift for a charge. It is advisable to check these charges before purchasing.

So, in summary, my advice is to consider all of the points above and then contact a reputable supplier of stairlifts and go and discuss your requirements with them. Most have expert staff on hand to answer your technical queries and build a tailor made solution to fit your needs. Products to make someone more mobile are often bought by, or for, the vulnerable or infirm - take the risk out of the purchase and talk to experienced care advisors that have been specially trained to understand their customer's needs and requirements.

About The Author


John Fowler trained as a Mathematician and has worked in the IT industry for over 30 years, much of the time in sales related functions. He now spends his time between being a partner in SEO Gurus and as a sales and management trainer for ICT companies. John can be contacted via http://www.services-professional.co.uk