By: Dave Markel
Building a set of wood stairs is not nearly as hard as you may think. With some basic wood tools and a bit of algebra you can easily build your own. Of course this can get a bit tricky for stairs with several landings but the method is still the same.
This article will cover the steps for building a straight set of stairs. Chances are if you are reading this then you are still learning and won't be taking on a complex stair anyway.
Now, we will assume that it is from a deck to a concrete pad. The deck is going to be 48" wide and at eye level from the ground.
Tools you will need:
Circular saw
Framing square
Hand saw
Carpenters pencil
Measuring tape
4' Level
Masking tape
You will also need:
3 @ 10' / 2" x 12" boards - Choose the best only, make sure they are straight with no check (cracks). Very Important!
2 @ 8' / 2" x 4" boards
8 @ 8' / 2" x 6" boards - Once again choose the good ones. These are going to be the steps so...
1 @ 45" / 2" x 6" boards
1 sheet of plywood @ 1/2" / 8" x 48"
Of course, 3-1/2" framing nails and deck screws or nails for the steps.
Find the overall rise
We want to know the exact vertical distance from the top of the concrete pad to the top of the deck. Take one of the 8' 2x4's and rest one end on the deck and hold the other over the pad, Place the level on the 2x4 and level the board. Then simply measure from the bottom of the 2x4 to the pad. Lets say it is 64". This is the overall rise.
Now determine the overall run
Before we can do this we have to determine how many steps we need.
So first..
Take the overall rise, 64", and divide it by 7.25", which is the typical height of 1 riser (step). This gives us 8.83, which rounds up to 9, So we will go with 9 risers.
Important: There is always 1 less tread then risers. Whether you go up or down the last step is onto the deck or the pad. So 1 less tread.
Now we take 10.5", the width of a typical step, and multiply it by 8. This gives us 84". This is the overall run.
While we are doing the math we need to figure out the exact rise of each step. We simply take the overall rise of 64" and divide it by 9 and we get 7.111" or 7-1/8", or close enough to it. So each riser will be 7-1/8".
Time for some layout
First thing. Grab your framing square. The long leg is the tread (step) leg and the short leg is the riser leg. Also, use the numbers on the outside of the square only.
Take some masking tape and wrap a piece around the framing square to establish you rise and run. Mark 10.5" on the outside of the long leg and 7-1/8" on the outside of the short leg.
Layout one of the 2x12's on your saw horses or work bench. WIth the long leg of your framing square towards the end of the board start to line up the tape marks to the edge of the board facing you. Once you have the square in position mark the outside edge of it with your pencil.
Continue to do this until you have the required number of steps, 8 in this case. This first riser is always shorter by the thickness of the steps, for us that is 1.5". This makes the first riser 5-5/8".
Cut 'em out
Now use you circular saw to cut out the stringers (technical name for 2x12 with stair marks on it) being sure to cut on the waste side of the line. When you cut into the corner with a circular saw the blade misses some of the wood on the bottom side of the board. This is fine, simply cut up to the line and stop, then finish the cut with your hand saw.
Now use the first stringer as a template for the other two. Lay the stringer onto the 2x12's and trace around it. Then cut out the other stringers the same as the first.
Reinforce the stringers
Align one of the 8' 2x4's along the bottom edge of the string and mark it to fit the profile of the ends of the stringers. Cut the 2x4 and secure it to the bottom edge of the stringer. Repeat this for one other stringer. These help to strengthen the stringers and reduce "bounce" in the stairs. Use the framing nails to secure them.
Assemble the stairs
The plywood is used to attach the stairs to the deck. Secure the sheet of plywood to the top end of the stringers. The two outside stringers are nailed flush with the edge of the plywood while the third stringer is centered on the sheet. Simply nail through the plywood into the face of the stringers using framing nails. 4 into each stringer will be enough.
Now take the 45" 2x6 and nail it in between the bottom of the outside stringers. The 2x6 will fit into the notch cut into the center stringer. This provides the right spacing for the bottom of the stairs and secures them to the pad.
Attach them to the deck
Move the stairs into their final position. make sure they are level across the stringers and that the risers are plumb. When the stairs are positioned correctly nail through the plywood into the side of the deck. Use some 3" concrete nails to secure the 2x6 spacer to the concrete pad.
Install the treads
Cut the 8 - 8' 2x6's in half, be sure to cut them square. Starting at the bottom of the stairs, start placing the 2x6 stair treads. Simply center them on the stringers and use some 3"deck nails to attach them. You can also use an exterior adhesive to assure that they don't move.
Continue to work your way up the stairs until you reach the top.
You are done... well, almost
Railings. You need to install a railing to keep people from falling off.
About The Author
Dave Markel is the author of "The All Wood Working Journal". He has helped hundreds of individuals improve their wood working skills. Visit his site at http://all-wood-working-plans.com.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
How To Choose An Interlocking Wood Decking Tile
By: Malcolm D Kay
Interlocking wood decking tiles or patio pavers are rapidly becoming a very popular product for quickly and easily covering drab concrete patios with an attractive solid wood surface. They have the big advantage that you don't need to rip up the old concrete and can simply lay them over the top, without any special surface preparation. And the beauty of these convenient patio pavers is that you don't need to be an expert handyman and you won't need a special set of power tools to install them. They just click together like a jigsaw puzzle.
However there is now a increasing number of manufacturers offering such products, so making an informed choice between what's available is becoming more difficult. In this article, we discuss some of the main features of the tiles that you probably should consider before making a final decision on which tile would suit you best in your particular circumstances.
Wood species
This is probably one of the most important aspects in choosing a decking tile. Ideally you would choose a wood species with the highest natural durability, but there is the colour aspect to consider as well. Wood species can range tremendously in colour, from light straw through chocolate browns to deep orange red colours. But based on durability considerations alone, then one of the most durable and hard wearing species is undoubtedly Ipe wood from South America. Under this there are then a number of other wood species also from South America and a few from Southeast Asia. Rather than listing all the individual species, we suggest that you check the durability and other characteristics from an authoritative web site such as the USDA Forest Service at http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/Menu.ssi . Note that some species, although they may be durable in respect of climatic considerations, may still be subject to insect attack such as termites which could be an important consideration in your particular region.
Other considerations when choosing the wood species of course are whether the wood has been responsibly harvested or comes from managed forests.
Wood thickness
Most tiles on the market use wood slats which are approximately 5/8” (15mm) thick. Some manufacturers supply tiles with 3/4" thick slats and others with ½” thick slats. The product you choose to some extent depends on the location where you intend to lay the tiles. For interior situations such as basements, covered patios and other areas not subject to extreme weather conditions, then the ½” thick slats maybe entirely suitable. However in areas with more extreme climatic variation, we would suggest that the thicker wood is a better choice.
Plastic base composition
Plastic tile bases may be made of many combinations of plastic including polypropylene, polyethylene or other plastic materials. Whilst different manufacturers have their particular reason for choosing a specific plastic compound, the main considerations you should be aware of are the brittleness of the plastic, the low temperature characteristics (if you happen to live in a very cold area), and the UV stability of the plastic used. The latter point is extremely important as unless a plastic product used in exterior conditions contains a UV stabiliser, it can degrade very quickly.
Interlocking mechanism
Broadly speaking, there are only two types of interlocking mechanism used on decking tiles currently in the marketplace. Firstly there is the type that has female connectors on two sides and male connectors on the other two sides. Generally speaking, the female connectors are a series of loops which mesh with the pins on the other two sides.
The other type of locking mechanism is completely symmetrical so that any side of any tile will lock with any side of any other tile such as SwiftDeck tiles from http://www.swiftdeck.com.
The disadvantage of the loop and pin style is firstly that it requires a bit more thought in laying the tiles as you must effectively only start in one corner of the area to be covered and keep on moving from that corner. It is difficult to install or remove one of these type of tiles in a central area without disrupting at least three of the tiles around it. The other problem is that on the outer edge of final row you will have one tile with loops on the edge and the next tile with pins on the edge.
There are also tiles on the market which are effectively one way connectors. Once you click the tiles into position, you cannot easily lift them up again. Whilst this may not be a disadvantage if you have no intention of changing the tiles at any time, it does limit your options if you intend to move your home or if you wish to change the design of the deck.
The other problem with the loop and pin design is that if the manufacturer provides an option of clip-on transition strips, then you need two types of these - one which will connect with the pins, and one which will connect with the loops. And similarly if corner transition pieces are supplied as an option, then you also need two types of these as well.
Availability of different designs
Some manufacturers only supply one design of deck tile, generally with four slats of wood running in the same direction. Sometimes there is an option of a five or six slat tile. With other manufacturers you may have an option of more than one design. The advantage of this is that you can then mix and match the different designs to make attractive borders, centrepieces etc.
Optional accessories
If you are using the tiles to cover an existing concrete patio, you would probably have at least one open side. Thus on the final row tiles, you would be able to see the plastic base and the connecting pins unless they are hidden somehow. Some manufacturers therefore provide clip-on transition strips which also have the advantage of reducing the danger of shipping on the outer row of tiles. Corner transition strips are also normally available from such suppliers for the external corners.
This covers the main design and material factors that you should consider when choosing a wood decking tile / patio paver. Of course as well as the above factors you would probably also want to take into consideration the price of the tile, the warranty being offered, any trial period being offered, the after sales service, return policy etc
About The Author
Malcolm Kay is the CEO of HandyDeck Systems Inc. a supplier of DIY exterior home improvement products including interlocking wood patio pavers. For more information see http://www.swiftdeck.com .
Interlocking wood decking tiles or patio pavers are rapidly becoming a very popular product for quickly and easily covering drab concrete patios with an attractive solid wood surface. They have the big advantage that you don't need to rip up the old concrete and can simply lay them over the top, without any special surface preparation. And the beauty of these convenient patio pavers is that you don't need to be an expert handyman and you won't need a special set of power tools to install them. They just click together like a jigsaw puzzle.
However there is now a increasing number of manufacturers offering such products, so making an informed choice between what's available is becoming more difficult. In this article, we discuss some of the main features of the tiles that you probably should consider before making a final decision on which tile would suit you best in your particular circumstances.
Wood species
This is probably one of the most important aspects in choosing a decking tile. Ideally you would choose a wood species with the highest natural durability, but there is the colour aspect to consider as well. Wood species can range tremendously in colour, from light straw through chocolate browns to deep orange red colours. But based on durability considerations alone, then one of the most durable and hard wearing species is undoubtedly Ipe wood from South America. Under this there are then a number of other wood species also from South America and a few from Southeast Asia. Rather than listing all the individual species, we suggest that you check the durability and other characteristics from an authoritative web site such as the USDA Forest Service at http://www2.fpl.fs.fed.us/Menu.ssi . Note that some species, although they may be durable in respect of climatic considerations, may still be subject to insect attack such as termites which could be an important consideration in your particular region.
Other considerations when choosing the wood species of course are whether the wood has been responsibly harvested or comes from managed forests.
Wood thickness
Most tiles on the market use wood slats which are approximately 5/8” (15mm) thick. Some manufacturers supply tiles with 3/4" thick slats and others with ½” thick slats. The product you choose to some extent depends on the location where you intend to lay the tiles. For interior situations such as basements, covered patios and other areas not subject to extreme weather conditions, then the ½” thick slats maybe entirely suitable. However in areas with more extreme climatic variation, we would suggest that the thicker wood is a better choice.
Plastic base composition
Plastic tile bases may be made of many combinations of plastic including polypropylene, polyethylene or other plastic materials. Whilst different manufacturers have their particular reason for choosing a specific plastic compound, the main considerations you should be aware of are the brittleness of the plastic, the low temperature characteristics (if you happen to live in a very cold area), and the UV stability of the plastic used. The latter point is extremely important as unless a plastic product used in exterior conditions contains a UV stabiliser, it can degrade very quickly.
Interlocking mechanism
Broadly speaking, there are only two types of interlocking mechanism used on decking tiles currently in the marketplace. Firstly there is the type that has female connectors on two sides and male connectors on the other two sides. Generally speaking, the female connectors are a series of loops which mesh with the pins on the other two sides.
The other type of locking mechanism is completely symmetrical so that any side of any tile will lock with any side of any other tile such as SwiftDeck tiles from http://www.swiftdeck.com.
The disadvantage of the loop and pin style is firstly that it requires a bit more thought in laying the tiles as you must effectively only start in one corner of the area to be covered and keep on moving from that corner. It is difficult to install or remove one of these type of tiles in a central area without disrupting at least three of the tiles around it. The other problem is that on the outer edge of final row you will have one tile with loops on the edge and the next tile with pins on the edge.
There are also tiles on the market which are effectively one way connectors. Once you click the tiles into position, you cannot easily lift them up again. Whilst this may not be a disadvantage if you have no intention of changing the tiles at any time, it does limit your options if you intend to move your home or if you wish to change the design of the deck.
The other problem with the loop and pin design is that if the manufacturer provides an option of clip-on transition strips, then you need two types of these - one which will connect with the pins, and one which will connect with the loops. And similarly if corner transition pieces are supplied as an option, then you also need two types of these as well.
Availability of different designs
Some manufacturers only supply one design of deck tile, generally with four slats of wood running in the same direction. Sometimes there is an option of a five or six slat tile. With other manufacturers you may have an option of more than one design. The advantage of this is that you can then mix and match the different designs to make attractive borders, centrepieces etc.
Optional accessories
If you are using the tiles to cover an existing concrete patio, you would probably have at least one open side. Thus on the final row tiles, you would be able to see the plastic base and the connecting pins unless they are hidden somehow. Some manufacturers therefore provide clip-on transition strips which also have the advantage of reducing the danger of shipping on the outer row of tiles. Corner transition strips are also normally available from such suppliers for the external corners.
This covers the main design and material factors that you should consider when choosing a wood decking tile / patio paver. Of course as well as the above factors you would probably also want to take into consideration the price of the tile, the warranty being offered, any trial period being offered, the after sales service, return policy etc
About The Author
Malcolm Kay is the CEO of HandyDeck Systems Inc. a supplier of DIY exterior home improvement products including interlocking wood patio pavers. For more information see http://www.swiftdeck.com .
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